During the first nine decades of Bloemfontein’s existence as capital of either a Boer republic or a British territory, the city received an impressive array of royal visitors from abroad, particularly from Britain. While all of them visited Bloemfontein as part of a tour of the central region or the whole country, they either insisted or were keen on visiting the city. This is remarkable considering Bloemfontein’s long-standing but undeserving reputation as a so-called “sleepy town in the middle of nowhere”. Perhaps trying to avoid the impression of the “dorpiest dorp” was the reason why the city’s bureaucrats always went out of their way to roll out the proverbial red carpet for the royalty. Bloemfontein’s residents also played their part – even those who thought the royal visits had nothing to do with them.
In August 1860, when Bloemfontein was barely a village, it hosted its first royal visitor. He was still a minor: Prince Alfred (1844–1900), the 16-year-old second son of Queen Victoria. Later he would become the Duke of Saxe-Coburg and Gotha named after the House of Saxe-Coburg and Gotha (also House of Hanover; House of Windsor since 1917). The Prince was accompanied by Sir George Grey, Governor of the Cape Colony, on a trip to the Orange Free State republic. Bloemfontein’s predominantly English-speaking and pro-British residents welcomed the Prince with Union Jacks and fireworks. Prince Alfred’s visit is not remembered for high-level talks with the republican government but for the massive game hunt that was arranged for him at Bainsvlei outside Bloemfontein. On 24 August, between 5,000 and 6,000 animals were shot by the Prince and his huge hunting party. For many years since the Prince’s visit, Bloemfontein celebrated 23 August as a public holiday.
Bloemfontein had to wait 47 years before another royal paid a visit. This time it was not a member of the British royal family but one from Portugal’s House of Bragança who came to town. The 20-year-old Duke of Bragança (1887–1908) officially visited Bloemfontein on 26 August 1907. He was also known as the Portuguese Crown Prince, Dom Luís Filipe. The Duke had been invited to visit Bloemfontein after his tour of Portugal’s colonies in Africa. At the time of his visit, Bloemfontein was the capital of a British colony, namely the Orange River Colony (1902–1910; later the Orange Free State).
Bloemfontein’s colonial bureaucrats were not only known for following protocol to the letter but also for staging spectacular receptions for foreign dignitaries. The Duke’s visit did not disappoint; it was a glamorous affair that included a polo match, Scottish dancing, and a formal ball at the Old Presidency. Reportedly, the energetic Duke enjoyed the ball so much that he danced until three o’ clock the following morning! Dom Luís Filipe’s visit was memorable for different reasons: while Bloemfontein’s women had an opportunity to see “the handsomest Prince in Europe”, the thousands of Portuguese flags and Union Jacks that decorated Bloemfontein’s streets provided a spectacle for everyone else to enjoy.
The next British royal who set foot on Bloemfontein soil was the British Crown Prince, better known as the Prince of Wales and later as Edward VIII (1894–1972). He visited Bloemfontein on 25 and 26 May 1925 when South Africa was a dominion (self-governing territory) of the British Empire. The visit of the young Prince – he was a romantic hero of his time – caused a frenzy among Bloemfontein residents long before he arrived. What does one wear in the company of a Prince? “[This] is not an occasion for caution and ‘making do’”, the local newspaper, The Friend, advised those who were invited to one of the social events held in the Prince’s honour.
One of the highlights of the Prince’s visit was a formal ball hosted in the new market building in town. It was attended by more than a thousand guests, including the Prime Minister, General J.B.M. Hertzog. The main hall was decorated with festoons and illuminated with two thousand light bulbs. The Prince also set aside time to meet with Bloemfontein’s black community leaders; some of the barena were dressed in top hats and tails to show their respect. To the contrary, the local branch of the ANC boycotted the event in protest of the Bloemfontein Municipality’s racial policies. A special rose garden in King’s Park was laid out in the Prince’s honour and, later on, King Edward Road in Willows was named after him.
The fact that Bloemfontein was widely praised for the exemplary way in which the Prince of Wales was hosted meant that the city was not to be overlooked for future royal visits. Therefore, it was no surprise that his younger brother, Prince George, later the Duke of Kent (1902–1942), was keen to visit Bloemfontein as part of his South African tour in February 1934. Because his visit took place shortly after the Great Depression of 1933, the event was a scaled-down affair compared with his brother’s visit nine years earlier. Still, there was no lack of enthusiasm among Bloemfontein’s residents and, once again, they rolled out the red carpet with gusto.
Thousands of people waving Union Jacks lined up on Bloemfontein’s streets to get a glimpse of the distinguished bachelor. During his two-day visit (27 and 28 February), the Prince unveiled the cornerstone of Bloemfontein’s new city hall. Notwithstanding Bloemfontein’s growing anti-British Afrikaans-speaking segment, most residents were still pro-British and pro-monarchy. Similar sentiments were also noticeable at the show grounds when the Prince received an address of loyalty to the British Crown from Thomas Mapikela, Bloemfontein’s Headman of Locations. A brass ‘Kiltie band’, complete with bagpipes and band members dressed in Scottish outfit, welcomed the Prince.
Spectacular as they were, the visits of the Prince of Wales and Prince George pale in comparison with the visitation of the entire British royal family to Bloemfontein in March 1947. The sojourns of the two Princes paved the way for the most spectacular of royal visits, namely that of King George VI (1895–1952), the reigning British monarch, his wife Queen Elizabeth (1900–2002), and their two daughters, Princess Elizabeth (later Queen Elizabeth II; 1926–2022) and Princess Margaret (1930–2002). They visited Bloemfontein from seven to nine March as part of their South African tour. At the time, Bloemfontein had its fair share of republican-minded anti-monarchists who either ignored the visit or stood apathetical towards it. The royals, especially the Queen, responded to this prejudice with a “charm offensive”. Seemingly, it worked because in Bloemfontein there was no lack of public interest in this glorious event; in fact, the royal party found “hysterically cheering crowds” everywhere they went!
Instead of sleeping in the White Train – the royal party’s ‘home’ for the duration of the tour – they stayed at the Governor-General’s official residence (presently known as the Oliewenhuis Art Museum). There, the family could take respite from the multitudes of well-wishers who came from all over the Free State to get a glimpse of the world’s most famous monarchic family. The royals certainly needed as much rest as they could get because their schedule was crammed with social events, including a tea party in King’s Park and a formal ball in the city hall. At the King’s request, the regal household also paid a visit to Batho Location, where they received an address from Bloemfontein’s black community. Despite the event being boycotted by the local ANC, thousands of black people gathered at the Masenkeng sports ground to see the royal family. A mass choir performed God save the King, but they were barely audible above the voices of thousands of spectators who spontaneously joined in.
The significance of Bloemfontein’s royal visits must not be overestimated; at least not from a political perspective. Those were essentially social and cultural events that seldom achieved long-term political objectives because of their predominantly symbolic nature. Anti-monarchist sentiments and political undercurrents notwithstanding, Bloemfontein’s residents – white and black – always managed to temporarily set their differences aside to receive the visiting royalty not only with dignity but with pomp and splendour. While it may be argued that Bloemfontein staged the impressive receptions to compensate for the city’s shortcomings, the royal visitors experienced the hospitality shown to them as sincere.
Moreover, it may be argued that the mystery that always surrounded royal families – including the House of Windsor and the House of Bragança – was an important ingredient that contributed to the success of Bloemfontein’s royal visits. Whether it was loyalty to the Crown, curiosity or excitement, the urge to see the royals up close was too strong to resist. Finally, the fact that the British royal family members, in particular, presented themselves as beacons of stability and continuity, might have been reassuring for ordinary citizens during times of change and upheaval. With its good amount of social and political turbulence, Bloemfontein was certainly no exception; however, this did not prevent the city from rolling out its red carpet of hospitality and respect.
Sources
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